Exploring the Realm of South Africa's Rain Queen

Visit a Land of African Legends and Ancient Cultural Heritage

Sep 8, 2008 Sharon van Wyk

Limpopo, South Africa's most northern province, is a place of mystery where visitors can unlock the key to ancient tribal cultures while sampling township tours.

Most of Limpopo is prime African bushveld – wide open expanses of flat scrub, dotted with small acacia thorn trees and marked by curious granite outcrops, inselbergs and majestic baobab trees.

However, this changes around the region of Magoebaskloof, where more traditional mountain peaks give rise to lush rainforests.

The Magoebaskloof Pass is particularly dramatic, descending down a steep, winding road beneath a thick canopy of trees to the much drier climate of the Limpopo Lowveld some 1500 metres below.

Rich Traditions and Cultures In An Ancient Forest

Magoebaskloof is also home to a breathtaking, almost primordial cycad forest. This is the realm of the Modjadji people and their legendary Rain Queen. It was the Modjadji and their beguiling matriarch who were the inspiration for F Ryder Haggard’s immortal novel “She”.

The Modjadji people have a rich cultural and historical heritage and still use the cycad forest as a venue for traditional ceremonies. Walking trails and organised tours are available in the forest, which is a must-see addition to any visit, if only to ponder at the wonder of these mysterious, prehistoric plants.

Pioneering Coffee Farmer Leaves His Name to History

The village of Haenertsburg, a short drive down the breathtaking Magoebaskloof pass, is also steeped in history. It is named after Carl Ferdinand Haenert, a pioneering German-born farmer who was the first farmer to plant coffee in South Africa.

Haenert also discovered gold in 1877, sparking a mini gold-rush in the area which led to the founding of the village.

Today, Haenertsberg is becoming a thriving tourism centre, with arts, crafts and fruit and nut plantations attracting visitors from far and wide.

Drakensberg a Must For Bird Watchers

Far below Haenertsberg lies the picturesque town of Tzaneen. Here the lush rainforests of the Modjadji give way to endless hills and dramatic summits which make up the northern reaches of the majestic Drakensberg mountains.

This area is a prime birding spot, with more than 370 species to be seen, including the majestic crowned eagle, rare scaleythroated honey guide and elusive "Holy Grail" of Southern African ornithologists - the fabled narina trogon. This beautiful green and bright red bird is frequently spotted at one of the area's top accommodation establishments - The Coach House.

Old Staging Post Now a Top Hotel and Spa

Located in the charming village of Agatha, a short drive from Tzaneen, the Coach House is set in extensive gardens filled with azaleas and camellias of every hue and variety. This luxury hotel and spa stands near the site of a staging post built in 1892 by the Zeederberg Coach Company to rest and change teams of mules and oxen before tackling the final step along a torturous road to the Lowveld.

As befits its history, the Coach House's furnishings are opulent yesteryear. Built in keeping with the Victorian era, the spa has a fully equipped sensorium with its own dining room, a large heated jet pool and gymnasium.

Township Tours Highlight Local Cultures

The Coach House offers an ideal base from which to explore the area. Perhaps the best way to do this is on a township and cultural tour run by local guide James Ndhlovu.

James offers a completely authentic glimpse of what life is really like in the townships, villages and rural settlements of the Letaba district, taking in the history of the area’s main tribes - the Shangaan, Sepedi and Venda.

The tour includes a visit to Momo’s Tavern – a traditional shebeen in the heart of a local township – where guests take refreshments with proprietor Dorcas Moshele. It's hard to believe that a mere 20 years ago tours like this did not exist. South Africa has a lot to be thankful for, as do the tourists now discovering the rich fruit of this incredible destination.

For more information visit www.golimpopo.com

The copyright of the article Exploring the Realm of South Africa's Rain Queen in Sub-Sahara Africa Travel is owned by Sharon van Wyk. Permission to republish Exploring the Realm of South Africa's Rain Queen in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.